*Roussillon sadly closed in June 2012*
The new appointment of Head Chef Shane Hughes at Roussillon is an excellent one. Having run the kitchens of Ynyshir Hall for five years, and having retained a Michelin star there for three, the intentions of this French restaurant are very clear.
The restaurant is nestled in the neighbourhoods of Chelsea, Knightsbridge, Pimlico and just a few minutes’ walk from Sloane Square and is certainly in keeping with expectations in that neck of the woods.
The restaurant is smart, formal and the menu reflective of its fine dining Michelin aspirations. We were seated at 8pm and were the second table to arrive.
The dining room was silent and felt a little uncomfortable, but within half an hour it was full of local regulars, business meetings, families and older couples who all felt totally at ease here, creating a lively buzz.
The menu is incredibly seasonal and the time of year jumps out from the page. We visited in truffle season, and unfortunately I am just not that way inclined, which was a shame as truffles were on the majority of dishes on the menu.
I ordered around this (we opted for a la carte, rather than the tasting menu), and as we waited for our food to arrive we were brought a tray of absolutely delicious breads to start proceedings.
My seafood carpaccio was stunning, such a pretty dish, and perfectly light to allow for the much more substantial mains. My companion ordered black truffle risotto with girolles and oyster leaf which I am assured was creamy with a real depth from the seasonal additions. Mains were hearty with an emphasis on meat.
I was presented with a generous portion of welsh valley mallard which had a great flavour, and the red cabbage and swede additions meant the dish was comforting, tasty and a fine-dining take on a Sunday roast.
My partner had the lamb, which again presented a dish with really strong, gutsy flavours. Not as delicate as the starters, the mains were warming and delicious, if perhaps a little unimaginative.
For dessert we shared a Vanilla soufflé with Passion fruit sauce which was so sweet and so light, it was the stand-out dish of the evening. Illustrating the chef’s great abilities and finesse, this soufflé was an absolute triumph.
A mellow experience which felt comforting, warming and unchallenging, Roussillon is not one for the youngsters. What it does do is cater to its Sloane Square audience brilliantly, serving French food they’ll recognise; a wine list full of classics; surroundings probably not dissimilar to their homes; all with style, sophistication and just the right amount of French flair.
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