Olivocarne, located on an attractive street in Belgravia, is one of a group of neighbourhood restaurants specialising in Sardinian food owned by Mauro Sanna.
Sanna opened his first restaurant in 1990 and each one that has followed has a unique speciality and style. Olivocarne sits across the street from their gelato restaurant, Olivgelo, and offers classic Sardinian meat dishes with a contemporary feel.
This restaurant cuts quite a distinctive look, separated into three dining areas with the main room at the back that includes a striking mural pattern on the wall by designer Pierluigi Piu, the architect who has created bespoke finishings for each of Sanna’s restaurant.
In Olivocarne these images on the wall give a rustic contrast against the simple white tables and modern black chairs. It might not be to everyone’s taste, but there’s something self-assured in an otherwise conservatively decorated venue.
Our reservation was for 7.30 and the restaurant was very quiet, which was particularly noticeable due to the absence of any background music. However, any concerns we had about Olivocarne’s popularity were soon put to rest by 9pm as it filled up with older (and I’m guessing here) affluent couples from the Belgravia neighbourhood.
The quality of ingredients here is excellent. A starter of buffalo mozzarella over Sardinian ham is deliciously salty and tangy and the fillet of beef sautéed with varnaccia is beautifully buttery in texture.
I made my choice out of a number of beef dishes on the menu by the inclusion of the Sardinian varniccia, a type of sherry with an understated sweetness that makes for a light but richly flavoured sauce.
After being told the last grouse had gone (the speciality for that night – this is Belgravia after all), my guest opted for the celebrated suckling pig served with rosemary roast potatoes. This was moist, dense and generous.
The portions are such that I was too full for a pudding (or was that all the Sardinian crisps we had? A dangerously moreish dish, not entirely dissimilar to popadoms). So we opted for some ice cream from across the road which couldn’t fail to please.
It’s clear that Sanna has a real passion for what he does and a vision for his restaurants. The quality of food is matched by the warm and attentive service, where Sanna has also made a point of employing Sardinian staff.
This is a restaurant with a loyal following, but not necessarily one you would travel across town for. Olivocarne is embedded in its neighbourhood and this is reflected in the prices and the clientèle. But with several other restaurants to choose from and an emphasis on quality, perhaps it’s about finding the one that’s ‘just right’ for you.
Tip: It’s worth getting to Olivocarne a little before your reservation and checking out their cosy and elegant upstairs bar, which includes a small outdoor terrace and intimate tables where you can enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail.
If you liked this review, read some of Fiona’s other recent reviews, including The Pearson Room in Canary Wharf or Machiavelli in Covent Garden.
Read our guide to the best Italian restaurants in London.
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