Nicknames often come with the territory, and more often than not that territory is school. Appropriate then that one of the hottest new places to dine, ‘Monikers’, should be designed on exactly that.

Life for this trendy Hoxton Square restaurant was previously known as ‘The Hoxton Apprentice’, a sort of school-come-restaurant for aspiring young chefs, but prior to that, it was a local Primary School.

The site where Monikers restaurant stands now used to be the school’s old P.E hall, and so in a deliberate nod to its original heritage, the design focuses on exactly that.

You’ll find toffee-coloured varnished desks and benches complete with pegs that transport you immediately back to days spent fiddling with your gym kit, complete with those navy drawstring bags.

Coupled with the benches are items such as a huge roller-backed blackboard, reminiscent for me at least of Biology lessons but now displaying the daily specials, and a bar whose original use was in a Chemistry lab.

There are science-lab touches further dotted around the interior – goggle cases, glass jars and the ubiquitous periodic table stand out, but the real star piece at Monikers is the bus. The bar and restaurant’s mezzanine floor is a genuine old-school bus.

Sourced from a scrapheap just outside Heathrow it keeps the London vibe forefront and now provides remedy to cravings you’d never be permitted on board back then: cocktails.

It’s not all about the beverages here, although the French 75 and others come recommended, as does the wine list that includes a simple but inspiring array of things like an English Nyetimber and a Pinot Blanc from Sussex, and Italian and Spanish created interesting loveliness that dominate the rest of the list: the Italo-influenced staff will see that you’re very well catered for here.

What’s more impressive though aside from the décor and what goes in your glass is the food. And it’s here where you are reminded of why you came. Not gimmicky, not too trendy, here you can expect some real class when it comes to what’s on your plate.

The theme is primarily English with a Cornish touch – beginning with ‘earlies’ that are a country garden in a mouthful, and incredible black pudding scotch-egg that helps make your mind up over mains.

The theme continues throughout, but not with effort-too-much. Starters vary from Downview Farm asparagus, Hastings cuttlefish and leeks with Shetland mussel vinaigrette to main courses that include Pollock fishfingers, Launceston lamb and Goosnargh duck.

Puddings combine old classics with modern twists: strawberry jelly and elderflower ice-cream, or rhubarb crumble are just two. Everything about this place works in harmony with its personality. It’s clearly deliberate yet not at all forced.

I often write about wine, and when I do its ‘sense-of-place’ is often very important – how well what’s in the bottle expresses the terroir (landscape, climate and personality) that it comes from. Monikers achieves this splendidly, and for an area that’s particularly ‘hip’ it is a very pleasant surprise. I can’t wait to go back.

 

Share This