Dinner, drinks and entertainment: it’s a classic combination but not necessarily an easy one to pull off. Circus restaurant, which opened roughly three years ago, has embraced the renaissance of cabaret and burlesque that has swept London over recent years.
Walking through an unassuming door between Covent Garden and Holborn you are met by a bold, glowing, colour changing ‘Circus’ sign and the glamorous Victoriana staff. The intention is clear; this is a place for drama and spectacle.
Tucked away on Endell street, Circus restaurant has created an integrated approach to dinner and drinks with a show. Tables are held for two hours and the entertainment is presented in acts throughout the evening, rather than in one single piece.
The focus of the restaurant is a large communal table which the performers use to dance, cavort, eat fire and do mind-bending acrobatics while hanging from the ceiling.
Sitting at this table is perfect for big groups or anyone who wants to be right at the centre of the action. It’s high spirited and you certainly get up close to the action.
But there are other tables, which all appear to be positioned with a good view of the acts. These tables are ideal for when you want the fun, but to still be able to say something to your companion without a perfectly balanced derriere in the way.
The menu is pan-Asian, which seems appropriate. There would be something not quite right about tucking into a rich coq-au-vin or heavy pate with a woman in nipple tassles or a gymnast who wouldn’t look out of place at the Olympics.
My guest and I started with a mixture of sashimi and sushi, all pleasingly presented and fresh. The mains were the star of the show though, with a New York strip loin on hot rocks excellently cooked and tender.
From a menu that also includes tempura, salads and curries, we also ordered the black cod, a favourite of mine and a dish that can often reveal a lot about a restaurant. And phew! The meaty white flakes fall away under the fork with a delicious sweet and sticky coating.
Imagination has been put into the dessert menu and you could hardly come to a place like Circus and not try one. We tried the doughnuts and magnums with white chocolate, apple compote and jasmine ice cream. It was the doughy, sugary ensemble you would hope for and an excellently sized portion to share.
Circus isn’t cheap, but the entertainers are very talented and the food well executed. This isn’t a restaurant that becomes a regular. It is about the drama, glamour and fun of combining good food with cheeky and often seriously impressive entertainment.
It could be the perfect offering for a special occasion or as a way of introducing someone to London’s now very established burlesque and cabaret scene.
Concierge’s Tip: Ask to be seated on the central communal table if you want to be right in the centre of the action. There is also a cocktail bar and lounge from which you can catch the entertainment, open until 2am at the weekend with DJs.
Read our guide to the best restaurants in Covent Garden.
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