Set in one of the most architecturally dramatic buildings in London, the dining room has an overwhelming sense of grandeur and occasion, yet manages to be elegantly casual at the same time.

Although located in the same building as the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel at St Pancras International station, this is not a pit stop, a conduit or the start of a journey: this is a destination in itself.

The Gilbert Scott is the second restaurant from celebrated chef Marcus Wareing, but don’t expect Michelin-style finesse and ceremony – this is a British brasserie, with a menu of historic and nostalgic British dishes.

The starters include Brown and Forrest smoked salmon with oatmeal soda bread, crispy pig’s head with laverbread mayonnaise, pickled cockles, and sea herbs and venison terrine with Somerset cider chutney.

Highlights from the main courses include an intensely flavoured braised oxtail and nutmeg mash, veal schnitzel with fried egg, anchovy mayonnaise and capers, Mrs Beeton’s barbecue chicken and Cornish hake with cauliflower, capers, almonds and sea purslane.

Puddings are a highlight with classics such as sticky toffee pudding, warm apple pie, Eccles cake and trifle. It’s rare to find a menu where you would happily order it all.

We dined to the sound of a live pianist, which added to the nostalgia and created a wonderful atmosphere. I was envisaging a smoke-filled room with guests in formal attire enjoying dinner to the sounds of a live chanteuse.

The Gilbert Scott has a range of private dining options, including The Kitchen Table (pictured above) in the basement kitchen area, surrounded by walls of wine with the buzz of the kitchen in full view.

While the restaurant was a joy on every level (my only quibble being that the tables are a little too close to each other), The Gilbert Scott has an absolute gem of a cocktail bar that I would consider to be one of the best cocktail bars in London.

Combining an excellent cocktail menu with a truly stunning room with ornately painted ceilings and magnificent bell chandeliers, setting the scene for an enchanting evening of elegant decadence.

If you would like your concierge to arrange your next dinner at The Gilbert Scott or any other London restaurant, please contact us. Read our other restaurant reviews including, Fera at Claridge’s and 34 restaurant in Mayfair.

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